Through the generous sponsorship of Belmont University’s Lumos Scholarship Program, I was able to travel to Nepal to conduct a nine-week study on the history and impact of the mountaineering tourism industry on the country, as well as to observe the deeply diverse sociocultural roots of the nation. I sought to capture this information using photography and graphic design, and later gave a presentation to Belmont University students on my findings during my time in Nepal. Involved in this experience was a two-week-long trek throughout the villages of the Khumbu region to Everest Base Camp, one month of living in the Annapurna region conducting environment conservation work, and three weeks in the capital city of Kathmandu working as an non-clinical assistant at a small hospital.
Each portion of my journey was carefully crafted to provide a view of Nepal from multiple angles. The trek to Everest allowed me to immerse myself in the mountaineering and backcountry hiking economy, speaking with locals and learning of the effects — both positive and negative — of Nepal’s influx of tourists in the last half century. Living in Annapurna gave me insight into what Nepali village life truly looked like, while my conservation work revealed the impact a developing economy can have on the environment. Finally, my last few weeks in Kathmandu unveiled the reality and grit of life in a heavily populated Southeast Asian city. Serving a local hospital meant working with the brightest of Nepal to serve some of the most downtrodden. The insights I came away with from my time in Nepal are endless, but the high points of my analysis of its economy, the impact of mountaineering, and the nation’s need for change can be seen below. One thing is for certain – I will be back to Nepal again. It’s story is still unfolding, as is my place in it.
You can read more about my trip to Nepal from Belmont University or take a look at my blog that I kept throughout my travels.
Situated between two superpowers, Nepal has long struggled to maintain its own sovereign identity. The infiltration of Chinese communists in the 1990s stirred up a civil war that deposed Nepal’s monarchy and raged across the country for 12 years. Its current government, a parliamentary republic, has only been in power since 2008 and is rife with corruption. Culturally the nation remains split between those sympathetic to India in the dry southern grasslands of the Terai (largely Hindu) and those sympathetic to Tibetan-China in the mountainous north (overwhelmingly Buddhist). These cultures collide in the center of the nation, while poverty runs rampant across all regions, with over a quarter of the population below the international poverty line. Between its political instability and economic struggles, Nepal lacks its own identity.
Throughout the early half of the 20th Century, western society was captivated by stories of exploration and adventure. Beginning with the first attempt by George Mallory in 1924, the summiting of Everest became a source of international media attention and national pride. Thanks to the combined efforts of western climbers and Nepali guides, the sport of mountaineering matured significantly between George Mallory and the team led by Sir John Hunt in 1953. The attention garnered by the first successful team to summit Everest put Nepal on the map and solidified its connection with the western world.
As mountaineers, hikers, business people, and aid organizations flocked to Nepal throughout the later half of the 20th Century, its economy grew significantly. Hiking trails were built and maintained across the backcountry, once empty villages became tourism centers, expedition companies were established, and Nepal began to flourish in many respects. The very mountain that started it all was placed almost ceremoniously on the Nepali rupee, paying respects in a way to Everest’s impact on the national economy. However, this boom was not without its growing pains.
Poverty continued across Nepal despite its growth throughout the 20th Century. Those who thrived on tourism were left without income during the summer rainy season when few came to Nepal, forcing them to rely to agriculture in the off season. Meanwhile, those who earned enough money from opening tea houses, tourism companies, or working as guides sought to leave the country rather than to stay and better it. Abandoned tea houses and farms can be seen along the hikes to many mountains. As a result, nearly a third of Nepal’s GDP came from remittances, or money sent back home from those working abroad. Tourism was not seen as a source of wealth, but a ticket to escaping Nepal.
Differences in the cost of living naturally result in Nepali local guides charging less to lead mountaineering expeditions, as well as hikes across the backcountry. This is necessary for many Nepalis to climb the ‘corporate ladder’ of mountaineering in a sense. They begin as porters, carrying the luggage of tourists or climbers, then progress to assistant guides, then lead guides, and often retire from mountaineering once they have saved enough to open their own tea house along the route to a mountain. However, few actually desire this life. Many dream of going to school to become doctors, teachers, lawyers, and business people. But survival comes first, and that often means charging a tenth of what a westerner makes to do the same job, even if that doesn’t cover the cost of living in the high Himalayas. Such is the dark side of Everest.
It is easy to diagnose the problem, but much more difficult to cure the underlying illness. Nepal struggles with a host of issues, but the nation has been offered a powerful gift in its 8,000 meter peaks and diverse landscape that captures the imaginations of tourists worldwide. It must use this gift as a stepping stone, not an endgame. Nepal must look beyond agriculture and tourism by seeking to grow its economy through investing in people. Chief among Nepal’s needs is stronger human capital. Healthier, more educated, and safer individuals means a stronger workforce and more entrepreneurial economy. This can be done by reforming education, investing in healthcare, connecting the nation via roads, and cutting down on pollution. Such simple, but difficult changes will undoubtedly result in a more robust and diverse economy. Nepal, in many ways, was built on Everest, but its future should be built on a population of healthy and strong Nepalis.